One of the more persistent misconceptions about this part of the French Riviera is that all the great beaches belong to Saint-Tropez.
They don't. The famous Pampelonne, all 4.5 kilometres of it, is in the commune of Ramatuelle. So is the wild and beautiful L'Escalet, tucked between Cap Camarat and Cap Taillat on the wilder southern coast. So is the secluded inlet of Bonne Terrasse at the southern tip of Pampelonne, known to the fishermen of Ramatuelle long before anyone else discovered it. Ramatuelle has fifteen kilometres of coastline and three beaches that between them offer something for every kind of visitor and every kind of day. Here is what you need to know about each one.
Plage de L'Escalet | Our top pick for a reason
If we are recommending one beach in Ramatuelle to a guest who has not been before, it is this one. L'Escalet sits between Cap Camarat and Cap Taillat on the wilder southern coast of the commune, about five kilometres from the village by road, and it is the beach that people who know this part of Provence well tend to quietly keep to themselves.
The beach itself is a 350-metre stretch of sand and fine shingle, sheltered by pine trees and backed by a small harbour that has served the local fishermen for generations. What makes it exceptional is the water. Clear, deep close to the rocks and full of marine life, it offers some of the finest snorkelling on the entire peninsula. A mask and snorkel here will keep children occupied for hours and persuade adults to stay well into the afternoon. Kayak, paddleboard and Polynesian canoe hire is available on the beach in season, and the coastal path that leads south from L'Escalet towards Cap Taillat is one of the most rewarding short walks in the entire Gulf of Saint-Tropez.
That walk deserves a paragraph of its own. From the beach, the path passes through a succession of small coves, rocky inlets and stretches of translucent water that are among the finest wild swimming spots in the Var. The walk to the tip of Cap Taillat takes around forty minutes and ends at an ancient watchtower with views across to Porquerolles island to the west and back towards Cap Camarat and its lighthouse to the east. On a clear morning in June, with the path largely to yourself, there are very few better places to be on the French Riviera. L'Escalet has toilets, showers and lifeguard supervision in season. Dogs on leads are permitted. Parking is paid and limited, and in July and August the car park fills quickly - an early arrival is strongly recommended. One piece of advice that makes a real difference: the first beach at the car park end can become busy on summer mornings, but walk five to ten minutes further along the coastal path and the coves become noticeably quieter and considerably more beautiful.
L'Escalet is the beach for snorkelling, coastal walking and anyone who wants a day at the sea that involves genuine discovery. Families whose children swim confidently will find it particularly rewarding, and guests who make the walk to Cap Taillat tend to count it among the highlights of their trip.
Bonne Terrasse | The one the locals kept quiet about
Bonne Terrasse is the best-kept secret on the Ramatuelle coastline, and we say that with some confidence having steered guests here for years. It sits at the extreme southern end of Pampelonne, just beyond the last of the beach clubs, in a small semicircular inlet that served as the traditional fishing ground of Ramatuelle's fishermen for centuries before the rest of the coast became famous.
The beach is 150 metres of sand, curved and naturally sheltered, accessible by staircase from the car park above - around ten minutes on foot, steep enough to deter the casual visitor and all the better for it. There are no beach clubs here, no sun lounger rentals and no facilities beyond what you bring with you. The beach is unsupervised. What it offers in return is a seclusion that is almost impossible to find anywhere else on the Pampelonne coastline. The water is calm, clear and deep enough close to the rocks at either end of the inlet for confident swimmers to enjoy properly.
The geology of the cove is part of its appeal. The rocky headlands on either side shelter the inlet from the prevailing winds and give the water a stillness that the main Pampelonne beach cannot offer on windier days. When the mistral has produced chop further along the coast, Bonne Terrasse can be glassy and completely serene. Bring everything you need in terms of food, water and sun protection, as there is nothing available on the beach itself. Parking is limited at the top of the staircase and spaces go early in high season. A mask and snorkel are worth adding to the bag. Bonne Terrasse is the beach for guests who want to swim, read and be genuinely left alone.
Pampelonne beach | The most famous beach on the peninsula
Pampelonne is the most famous beach on the Saint-Tropez peninsula and one of the most celebrated in Europe, and it absolutely belongs on this list. It stretches for 4.5 kilometres along the eastern side of the Ramatuelle commune, facing southeast across a wide open bay with the Maures hills on the horizon and the Cap Camarat lighthouse rising above the southern headland. The sand is fine and golden, the water is clear and the scale of the place - standing at the water's edge and looking along the full length of the bay - is genuinely impressive.
The beach entered international consciousness in 1956 when Roger Vadim filmed And God Created Woman here with Brigitte Bardot, and it has accumulated a layer of cultural history since that very few stretches of sand anywhere in the world can match. The beach clubs that line the shore - among them Club 55, Nikki Beach, Epi Beach and Jardin Tropezina - have been evolving since that era, and their combination of good food, excellent rosé and a well-composed crowd represents one of the more pleasurable ways to spend a summer afternoon anywhere on the Riviera.
So why does it come third on our list? Honesty, mostly. Pampelonne in July and August is a specific experience that not every guest will love. The Route des Plages, the road that connects the village to the beach, can slow to a crawl from mid-morning onwards. The car parks fill early and the walk from the furthest ones in peak season is longer than most people expect. The beach clubs require advance reservations, Some of the most established are booked weeks ahead, and the prices, while broadly in line with this part of the Riviera, reflect the demand. Arriving at Pampelonne on a Saturday morning in August without a plan is not the same experience as the one most people picture when they think of this beach.
Approached correctly, however, Pampelonne is everything it promises. Leave before nine o'clock to avoid the traffic. Reserve a beach club in advance if that is the kind of day you want - or use the extensive free public sections of the beach and bring your own provisions. Go on a weekday if you can. The northern end of the beach is calmer and better for families with young children. The southern end, around Club 55 and the Pointe, is where the atmosphere is at its most lively and the people-watching is at its finest.
All three beaches are at their best in the shoulder months of May, June and September. The water is warm enough for comfortable swimming from June onwards, the car parks are manageable and the coastal paths are at their most enjoyable without the heat of high summer. If you are visiting in July or August, the early morning and late afternoon are when all three beaches are most rewarding - the light is better, the crowds are thinner and the water is as clear as it will be all day.
À bientôt,
